Christian Roewekamp Monsters and Critics 8 Mar 11;
Singapore - The landlady of the harbour restaurant in Pulau Ubin shakes her head. 'I'm sorry, we don't take credit cards.' She insists on banknotes which comes as a surprise to most visitors.
Over on the main island tourists can pay for anything with a slab of plastic - even a humble stick of chewing gum, although it is best not to spit out the remains on the pavement since doing so invokes a hefty fine.
In the Season Live Seafood hostelry on Pulau Ubin only cash will do and somehow that seems to fit in well with this tiny island in the Straits of Johor north-east of Singapore.
It offers a calm contrast to the tropical city of skyscrapers where men in suits rush to and fro with a mobile phone pressed to their ear. To journey to Pulau Ubin is not stressful either. It takes only ten minutes in a gently rocking 'bumboat' to reach the islet. The ferries set off from Changi Point close to Singapore Airport.
There is no scheduled timetable and the skipper waits until his contingent of 12 passengers are on board. The transfer costs 2.50 Singapore dollars (2 dollars) per person and it helps to be a little patient.
Pulau Ubin is Singapore in aspic and the local tourist board makes much play of the relaxed 1960s atmosphere here which once pervaded the whole country.
Pulau Ubin comes from Malay and means 'granite island.' The tourist board advertises the location as a taste of old Singapore and in some respects time here has stood still.
There are however differences and one of them strikes visitors the moment they disembark: In the old days the High Street would not have been teeming with mountain bikes. Hundreds of bikes for hire await visitors here and renting one for the day generally costs eight Singapore dollars.
The absence of modern civilisation becomes quickly apparent to anyone who sets off on the road leading out of the little community. It is like pedalling through a 1960s landscape and although this is not Vietnam, the little roadside huts are reminiscent of the ones seen on television in reports on the war which once raged in that country.
The typical shacks made of wooden stakes supporting a tin roof as protection against tropical downpours are a more recent addition. They are dotted all over the island and are ideal for cyclists seeking shelter from heavy showers.
Those who seek refuge here invariably get chatting with other cyclists or outdoor enthusiasts who come to the island to admire the lush greenery.
Numerous cyclists and backpackers come across each other on the roads while under a bridge a dozen canoeists with day-glo life jackets and orange boots gets ready for the off.
The bright boats stand out against a riot of green. Small rivers and lakes can be found all over Ubin and there are a few hills too. At 70 metres above sea level the highest elevation may not sound spectacular but the incline is very steep.
Most cyclists will want to dismount when tackling this obstacle, especially since the high humidity can leave those not used to the climate quickly short of breath.
From the north coast of Ubin, Malaysia seems to be close enough to touch yet the biggest attraction hereabouts is on the eastern side of the island. The Chek Jawa Wetlands is the name of a nature reserve rich in mangroves, rainforest and an ocean lagoon full of sea grasses.
With a little luck visitors may spot diminutive monkeys swinging from one branch to another while wild boars sniff the ground in search of something to eat. Visitors enter the area on a raised path mounted on stilts in order to protect the local flora and fauna.
From here a gaze into the gently lapping waves reveals a tranquil world where sea horses and starfish flourish. Another activity is to climb to the top of the 20-metre-high observation tower. From here there is not a skyscraper to be seen. The panoramic view is of a sea of green with sea-eagles circling overhead.
Much larger birds can be seen from this vantage point as well. Ubin lies below the main flight path to Singapore's busy airport and sometimes giant Airbus A380s and jumbo-jets sweep down in quick succession. The aerial commotion is a reminder that although Pulau Ubin is off the beaten track, it is still very much of this world.
