Off the urban path in Singapore

Spectacular slivers of nature survive in densely packed business paradise.
Tony Shuga, American-Statesman 21 Sep 08;

SINGAPORE — Much of this city is crowded with mile after mile of 10- to 20-story apartment towers, office centers, private schools, multifloor retail malls, then still more apartment towers. Though rows of tall trees shade many streets, it's hard to imagine the rain forests and coastal woodlands that once covered the island, now home to one of the world's most densely populated countries.

Yet remnants of that lush heritage survive. And like most everything else in Singapore, they're accessible by public transportation.

That goes even for Pulau Ubin, or Granite Island, which lies in the narrow strait separating Singapore from Malaysia to the north. It's about 90 minutes from downtown by light rail, bus and "bumboat" — wooden ferryboats that serve as the main link to the city, but can carry only a dozen pedestrians, and no vehicles.

Pulau Ubin is a 4-mile-long, mile-wide sanctuary of woods and wetlands with a population in the dozens. Simple, low-slung dwellings rely on generators for power. Narrow, paved roads are traveled mainly by tourists on bicycles that rent for less than $10 a day, apparently the settlement's major industry.

A high point is the recently opened Ketam Mountain Bike Park, where riders follow a twisting, roller-coaster path through trees and heavy undergrowth surrounding the abandoned, water-filled Ketam Quarry. Steep 15- to 30-foot inclines provide a grueling workout on trails marked with blue, black diamond and double-black diamond ratings that mirror those used on ski hills.

For a more leisurely look at nature, there's a boardwalk through the Chek Jawa tidal mangrove flats. Here the signs each offer a paragraph or two explaining how the vast tangle of exposed roots, branches and greenery functions as a critical piece of the marine ecology.

A second wilderness retreat, Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, is much closer to Singapore's urban core yet seems more remote. From Bukit Timah Shopping Centre, at the juncture of several busy thoroughfares, it's a 10-minute walk to the reserve's main entrance. Ten minutes more and you're surrounded by spectacular rain forest with 200-foot trees, huge-leafed plants and broad slopes blanketed by brilliant green ferns. The exotic vegetation is so thick that under overcast skies it's nearly too dim to see, and rainfall takes a quarter-hour to penetrate to the jungle floor.

Though it covers less than two-thirds of a square mile, the reserve contains an astounding abundance of plant life — more than 300 tree species in one five-acre survey plot, for example. There's a variety of well-marked foot and bike trails, ranging from an easy stroll to climbs up hundreds of treacherous stairsteps (the park contains Singapore's highest point, more than 500 feet above sea level).

Like the city itself, Bukit Timah is virtually unblemished by litter. On the day I visited, it was free of crowds as well, thanks to an hourlong thunderstorm that added to the sense that I was treading through the primordial past. Admission is free.

Other attractions worth checking out:

MacRitchie nature trails: Free and reachable by bus, this separate system of wilderness trails is near Bukit Timah but considerably larger, with several routes of more than five miles. The big draw is the Tree Top Walk, a suspension footbridge that stretches more than 250 yards between the park's two highest points.

Singapore Botanical Gardens: If you're more interested in the wild diversity of tropical plant life than a pseudo-adventure in the jungle, this is for you. It's not far from Bukit Timah and MacRitchie, and also busable. Admission is free, though there's a charge for exhibits such as the National Orchid Garden (about $4).

Singapore Zoo Night Safari: Often mentioned as a top Singapore attraction. The zoo is designed to hide its barriers and give the illusion of viewing the animals in nature. The effect is more pronounced after dark, when many species are active. Night, of course, is cooler, as well. The zoo can be reached by both bus and a special zoo shuttle that stops at several hotels. Cost of the Night Safari, with various optional features, is roughly $16-$30.

Science Centre: Another outstanding off-the-beaten-track destination, especially for children. An hourlong ride west of the urban center by light rail, the center is a vast collection of engaging, hands-on, kid-friendly displays highlighted by fairly sophisticated and frequently fascinating text explanations. (Several of these take shots at the West, and the U.S., for disregarding environmental concerns.) Divided into topic areas including energy, water, the human body, motion and ecology, the center reflects Singapore's plans to grow by training its kids and boosting technology as well as fostering business and trade. Basic admission is about $4.50.

For tourism information: 212-223-3331, www.visitsingapore.com.