Fish eaters advised to choose healthy and ethical species

Alaskan salmon, pollack, herring and mackerel make list of fish that is good for consumers and environment

James Meikle, guardian.co.uk 7 Jan 09;

Consumers are to be officially advised for the first time to eat ethically as well as healthily as the government tries to encourage people to adopt a more environmentally friendly diet.

British fish eaters will also be encouraged to turn to species whose stocks are not at risk from overfishing. A huge rise in consumption would result if existing health advice was followed properly.

Consumption of oily fish is less than half of what it should be if all Britons followed the advice, although white fish consumption is far nearer recommended levels.

The government's Food Standards Agency (FSA) already advises consumers to eat one portion of white and one of oily fish each week, in fresh, frozen or tinned form. The fish provide protein, vitamins and oily fish are particularly valuable for their omega-3 fatty acids, which offer protection against heart disease.

But it warns against eating too much because of the low levels of pollutants — particularly from the oily varieties — which can build up in the body. Girls and women of childbearing age and women who are breastfeeding are warned not to eat more than two portions a week and avoid shark, swordfish and marlin because they can carry high levels of methylmercury.

The FSA hopes that more environmental awareness will protect fish and encourage more fish eating among those who worry whether such a diet threatens species. About a quarter of the world's fish stocks are overfished, half are fished to their sustainable limits and less than a quarter are thought to be so healthy that they can be further exploited. Although fish farming might help, there is public concern over the industry's potential to damage the environment and its reliance on fish feeds, which can further reduce stocks.

The FSA today issued a consultation paper on how to pass on environmental advice. Rather than develop its own from scratch, it is likely to point consumers towards organisations such as the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) and Marine Conservation Society (MCS) which already advises consumers on the sustainability of stocks. The MSC has an international system for labelling fish from sustainable sources.

For instance, the MSC endorses Alaskan salmon and pollack, herring from Scotland, the North Sea, the Thames and Hastings, and is about to approve Scottish mackerel. But the present lists of white and oily fish on the FSA website do not mention the viability of their stocks. The MCS is worried about the future of several species — including cod from large parts of the Atlantic, wild halibut and orange roughy.

Rosemary Hignett, head of nutrition at the FSA, said: "We recognise the potential impact our advice might have on demands for fish. By helping to ensure they have access to clear and reliable information about sustainable sources of fish, consumers will be able to make more informed choices."

Britons are notoriously conservative about their fish choices despite increased sales of unusual types such as pollack, whiting, coley and sea bass, in some cases fuelled by the enthusiasm of celebrity chefs, or by consumers' environmental concerns and lower prices. But salmon, cod and haddock still dominate our diets with cod, haddock and tuna being among our top imports. Meanwhile we export large amounts of salmon, mackerel, herring and monkfish, with France and Spain our biggest customers.